瑞籍华裔珠宝首饰艺术家李雨轩艺术珠宝作品多巴胺系列及不完美系列 _时尚芭莎

【时尚芭莎网讯】

【不完美系列产品图】

展览的另一个系列命名为不完美，通过对众所周知的完美的雕塑的破坏，来表达每一个不完美的碎片都有自身完美的属性,而整个珠宝创作的过程也是对于如何打破对于审美的思考。

The other Art Jewelry Series is named Imperfection, By breaking the sculpture Venus which is know as perfect to get then imperfect pieces, to each piece has its own perfect beauty . And the whole production precess is a way to show the thinking about aesthetic.

【不完美系列产品创作过程图】

这组作品的创作过程亦被作者引申为珠宝作品的一部分，通过对创作方式的解读和延展，引领珠宝作品的观者从更深的层次思考珠宝作品及背后的故事。

The process of making these jewelries series is also part of the concept of the work . Lead people to change their view and think about jewelry in a deepen way also the story behind jewelry through the way how we make it .

【不完美系列产品图】

世界上没有绝对的完美，也没有绝对的不完美。一些不完美的缺陷和意外有时会帮助我们从新的视角认识表面一下的完美内在。只用眼睛是无法看到灵魂的，我们需要打破身体的局限去表达，这个过程就不再是直接传达这么简单了，艺术是一个打破美，内关自我的过程，超以象外，得其环中。

There is’t absolutely perfect and imperfect. Sometimes, a new angle would help us to understand something beneath the perfect appearance with the help of some defects or accidents . We can’t see the soul through our eyes, we need to break the limitation of the body to express and think, then it’s not just simply expressing direct.Art is a precess to break beauty, and self vipassana.

【展览图】

这两组作品定义为艺术珠宝，而非商品设计，因为作者明确的想要表达一个概念，艺术珠宝是独立于商业珠宝首饰的一种艺术品，这种概念和意识在国内尚处于初期阶段。商业首饰一般紧扣市场，以最大程度上服务市场和赢取相应的市场经济效益为主要目的。通常由团队分工协作完成，比如由设计师完成设计稿，创造性的内容基本可以到此为止，接下来将设计方案交给技师或工人进行量化生产，然后由市场营销部门进行市场销售运作。而艺术首饰一般由艺术家以艺术创作和文艺表达为目的独立完成作品，类似于画家和雕塑家的工作模式。艺术首饰作品在由艺术家完成的同时，当前工作更多的是处于展览、传播、推广和普及阶段，也可以说是不计较经济收效的文化艺术层面的前期贡献。

The two jewelry series are defined as Art Jewelry instead of commodity cause the creator want to express an opinion that art jewelries are art works which are independent from commercial jewelries, concept like this is quite fresh in China. Commercial Jewelries usually depend on the market, the main purpose is mostly for market service and gain more profits .Usually it’s team work , when the design is done by designer, the creative part is finished ,then the workers take charge of the mass productive process , lastly the marketing department do the sale work. On the contrary, art jewelries are created and handmade by artists to express art concept, close to the work model with painting artist and sculptor. By the meanwhile the artist works are done by artist, they are shown and published through exhibition to contribute to the culture and art instead of caring about profit.

【展览图】

在北欧，尤其是瑞典，丹麦，英国等地，珠宝艺术家通常都是独立艺术家，其作品通过展览，博物馆收藏，定制等形式推广，普通大众也是他们的主要顾客。西班牙设计师拉蒙·普格·古耶斯（Ramon Puig Cuyas)曾说过，首饰不只是用货架展示的，还是戴在身上的。而当代首饰就是佩戴的艺术, 更多地把首饰看作一样艺术品而不单单是装饰品，首饰应该是一种贴身的生命体验，它可以是兴高采烈也可以是郁郁寡欢。参观者应该换一种角度看待首饰：不再纠结于佩戴在自己身体的哪个部位以及表面上的美丑，注意它们的超乎寻常和独一无二的属性，它们作为手工艺术的精确和坚定，注意它们“精神上的滋养要远远高于装饰本身”。

In Northern Europe ,especially in Sweden ,Denmark and England. Jewelry artist usually exist as indie artist, their works are published through museum, galleries, and exhibitions, citizens are their customers also. A Spanish designer Ramon Puig Cuyas said: Jewelry should be shown on human body instead of goods shelf . Modern Jewelry is art about how to put it on our body, it’s more about art than decoration, and a life experience which could be happy and sad. People may change their opinion about jewelry ,care more about the unique ,independent and delicate spirit instead of paying attention on which part of the body to put it on or if it’s beautiful or not . As we are told , psychic energy from jewelry are much more important than beautiful decoration .